Very understated yet also very Undercover, this collection focused on blending tailoring with punk detailing, adding further emphases on sportswear, workwear, plus the odd subverted flash of conventionally feminine frill.
Tuxedo jackets in wool were spliced with nylon bomber jacket arms and denim patch pockets. A black sweatshirt featured a black trucker jacket section at its midriff and a pinstripe wool hem: this was teamed with black jeans cut with black jersey in a leg-length section whose black piping made them vaguely resemble cavalry-flashed tuxedo pants. Suiting and long black jersey dresses were contoured by silver zippers.
A Chanel-esque collarless jacket of the style whose ubiquity has snowballed was worn over a mildly disaffected T-shirt printed with the declaration “I hate cities.” Beneath these two garments was a long shirt whose skirt was pleated ingeniously to resemble a pair of black Bermuda shorts. South of these was a pair of punkish black jersey pants and some chunky, punky boots.
Billowy shirts in black or white were given drape and shape by more zippers or metal D-rings and jump ring closures, also sometimes adaptable to fix sleeve length. A cherry red biker jacket was frilled at the hip and edged with black lace at the back. Denim skirts were cut in with panels of plaid: similarly, georgette skirts were disrupted by jersey. Zip-able extension panels running down the side of a pair of fawn corduroy pants offered silhouette control south of a matching cropped jacket backed in cream jersey. And the silk cherry and emerald jacket was a real unicorn.
