Paragliding over the Swiss Alps is peak sightseeing

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VERBIER, Switzerland – The wind whips against your face when you soar above the Swiss Alps. The ground falls away when you’re gliding over jagged peaks, with only the sound of the breeze and the rustle of a parachute to interrupt the breathtaking views. The experience is both exhilarating and serene. It’s one reason people come to this village on Mont Fort near the French and Italian borders.

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For paragliding instructor Mike Belbas, this experience was life-changing. He first came to Verbier in 1997 for a ski season with his twin brother, Stuart. After taking a paragliding course, the brothers decided to pursue instructor ratings. By 2002, they had opened the Verbier Summits paragliding school.

The school has since become one of the top attractions for Verbier’s tourism industry, particularly as changing climate conditions have made the ski season less predictable. The school offers a range of courses, ensuring that anyone with a sense of adventure can take to the skies.

The two-week beginner course (which starts around $2,000, or $3,200 with accommodations) is a structured introduction to the sport, starting with ground-based training to master takeoff and landing techniques. By the third day, students are usually ready for their first solo flight — a moment of triumph and freedom as they take control and experience flight on their own. Intermediate courses focus on using the elements — wind, thermals and air currents — to achieve longer, more complex flights.

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Tandem flights (available year-round for about $220) are another major offering at the school, allowing tourists to experience the thrill of paragliding with the safety of an experienced instructor.

“It’s the interaction with the people that we absolutely love, and it’s that first experience of a tandem. Some of them are just whooping for joy,” Belbas said. “Others are just hanging on.”

These flights are particularly popular in winter, on days when skiing conditions may be less favourable. Imagine launching off a snowy slope and feeling the contrast between the cold air and the warmth of the sun on your face. It’s an experience that draws people from all over the world, eager to see the Alps from a new angle.

In town, chocolates and raclette

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Once you’ve had your fill of flying — or if you’re simply in the mood to explore — you’ll find a town known for its vibrant après-ski scene, cosy cafés, and shops that offer Swiss chocolates and mountain gear. Verbier is also home to some exceptional restaurants, where you can indulge in the local favourite: raclette.

For breakfast, the Arctic café offers organic coffee, fresh juices, smoothie bowls and great sandwiches. For lunch and dinner, stop into Le Fer à Cheval for the famous beef lasagna.

The Raclett’House is one of the most beloved spots in the valley when it comes to cheese. Owner Eddy Baillifard has deep roots in the region’s cheesemaking tradition. He began learning the craft from his father at 10 years old. After decades of working in the industry, Baillifard was forced to retire in 2012 due to a neck injury. However, his passion for cheese led him to open his restaurant in 2015.

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The restaurant quickly became a local landmark, known for its warm, inviting atmosphere as much as the cheese. The walls are adorned with unique cowbells, each one representing a cow from the local herds.

These cows, which graze in the mountain pastures, produce the milk that gives the cheese its distinctive flavour.

Jonathan, Baillifard’s son, now carries on the family tradition as the head cheesemaker at the Laiterie de Verbier factory. The facility produces nearly 50 wheels of cheese a day, each one aged in carefully monitored caves to develop its full flavour.

Reacting to a warming planet

The challenges of climate change are becoming increasingly evident in this idyllic setting. The mountains that provide such perfect conditions for paragliding and grazing are also prone to mudslides, a problem that has worsened in recent years.

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As warmer temperatures cause the permafrost to melt, the once-stable mountainsides are becoming more susceptible to erosion and landslides. These events have disrupted the lives of many in the region, threatening homes, businesses and the landscape that defines Verbier. In response, the local community has taken action to protect the town and the people’s way of life. Vulnerable areas have been reinforced with steel netting, and early warning systems have been put in place to alert residents to potential dangers.

The reality of climate change looms large, but the people of Verbier remain resilient. As skiing becomes less accessible, they will have to adapt, but the culture of enjoying the mountains — and the special cheese they produce — remains persistent.

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