Jenny Packham is “always trying to design something that people want,” she said. Indeed, when the British designer walked through her pre-fall 2025 collection, she was quick to point out what she believes will be a best seller—a black long-sleeved crepe dress with silver embellishments on the shoulder.
That’s not to say Packham doesn’t hold creatively romantic notions about her clothing; she’s become the go-to eveningwear designer for The Princess of Wales precisely because she can sew gowns that fit—and befit—the almost mythical ideal of royalty. Yet, Packham explained, she views success as making clothing that actually works on, and is wanted by, women. “To me, that’s the point in making something,” she said.
This season, she made plenty of dressy things that will be desired by plenty of women: black shimmery minidresses with bows for elevated cocktail soirees, sequin thigh-skimming numbers for parties with dancing and deejays. One standout dress, for example, featured pastel sequins and mirrored discs, like a kaleidoscopic disco ball. (It’s hard not to link these fun-loving, younger frocks to Taylor Swift: Packham made a custom purple sparkle minidress with a matching faux-fur coat for the singer to perform in during the Eras Tour, introducing her work to a whole new generation.)
The majority of the looks were formal and floor-length. Packham wanted to “marry opulence and minimalism” in her designs, and cited both the Age of Enlightenment and 1990s restraint as her inspirations. A simple black crepe dress was accented with a squiggly cascade of sequins; a white gown came with a keystone cut-out. The latter, said Packham, was inspired by a custom look she made for Dita von Teese during her Vegas residency.
Swift and von Teese are just two of the famous women Packham has dressed lately—Emily Blunt, Kate Winslet and Drew Barrymore all wore her dresses on the red carpet. “We are very proud that we dress a diverse age range of women,” she said. In this latest collection, both Gen Z and Boomers will find something on the rack.
